I had an interesting discussion (argument) with a sales lady at an unnamed locations that used be known as RobinsonsMay. I went in to try a TooFaced Foundation "Born this Way" that I keep hearing is like a second skin.
I am a Light Olive Skinned Toned lady of a certain age with Neutral/Golden Undertones. However, because my hair is super dark and my skin looks darker in fluorescent lighting, make-up artists at department stores always want to put me in foundation colors that are about two shades to dark for me.
I explained to the young lady that I tend to oxidize and therefore always try at least 2-3 shades lighter otherwise I will be a bright pumpkin orange within a few minutes of application. She of course SCOFFED at me and told me to have a seat, so I played along. She grabbed a few items and began the application, she chose the Praline Color which is a Medium Tan Golden color.
After she applied the Praline foundation, another customer arrived and she went to help her. I sat there patiently just waiting for my face to turn a bright persimmon pumpkin orange and after about ten minutes she returned and said "you were not kidding, about the color change."
I said NOPE...i do not kid about Oxidation, my chemistry does not like a lot of foundations. 85% of the time I wear MUD foundations because they are silicone based. However, it is a pricey foundations so I am always looking for something more affordable. I referred her to a wonderful article written by Kevin J. Bennet written on the subject; see below:
Enemy #1 of makeup artists (and consumers) is foundation that oxidizes. But, do you understand why this happens?⠀
It's time to pull back the cosmetic development curtain and explain this avoidable phenomenon.⠀ ⠀ The most significant contributors to foundation oxidization (and lack of stability) are WATER and PH level. The funny thing is, a high-performance foundation doesn't require water to do its job - flawlessly. ⠀ ⠀ FACT: Pigments do not oxidize in an Anhydrous (water-free) formula. When you remove water from the equation, you remove PH (acid/alkaline) as an oxidization factor. Now do you understand why most PRO foundations are water-free cream formulas? They remain stable and do not oxidize.⠀ ⠀ The Cosmetic Marketer's Dirty Little Secret:⠀ We've already determined, you don't "need" water in a foundation formula. The main reason water is present in foundation formulas is to suspend water-soluble skincare ingredients (like hyaluronic acid). ⠀Water does not want to mix with oils, waxes, or silicone. So, cosmetic chemists created ingredients and emulsifying techniques to trick water into meshing with oils/waxes/silicone so marketers could pack trending skincare ingredients into the formulas.⠀ ⠀ But we all know, once you give someone a taste, they want MORE. Marketers became obsessed with how many "benefits" they could cram into a foundation formula. But pack in too many, and the formula breaks (fails).⠀
FACT: No matter how advanced emulsification technology is, eventually, water and oil will separate (even long-wear foundations).⠀ ⠀ #MyTwoCents - It would be far more productive for consumer cosmetic marketers to take their lead from PRO brands and separate skincare from color cosmetics. ⠀Challenge chemists to create advanced, water-free consumer foundation formulas that perfect the appearance of skin and remain stable - without the inclusion of skincare.⠀ ⠀ What do you think? ⠀ Are skincare benefits necessary in consumer foundations, which could compromise stability? Or should skincare be stand-alone?⠀ ⠀ #makeup #makeupartist #skincare #cosmeticdeveloper #beautyexpert #makeupeducation #consumeradvocate #makeupaddict #inmykit #sassybeautyvybz #girlbringthewine